Almost any electric can be converted, but obviously single cutaways give limited access to the top frets, although you can overcome this to a limited extent by playing "Jeff Healey style" on the upper frets i.e. with your fretting hand above the fretboard. 1. Nut It's worthwhile investing in some files to make your own. I use "Norman Nut Files" (sold on eBay) on good quality bone blanks - works perfectly every time. Glue the new nut in with just a few drops of PVA - don't use epoxy or superglue. 2. Bridge With a one piece slanted bridge, and if you can't get enough adjustment on the saddles, then you may have to change it to one that has adjustment screws in contact with the posts in order to "correct" the angle. With trems, you can either try it with the arm above, or invest in a lefthanded one. Some FRs and early Kahlers have a trem hole on either side so there's no problem for conversion. 3. Control knobs Obviously for Tele-type vol or tone twiddlers, having the knobs on top is a big disadvantage. If you're not one of those, then the next big problem is accidently moving the controls whilst playing. The cure is to put a small rubber washer under each knob so that the control is relatively stiff to turn. 4. 3-way Gibson-type selecter switches On some guitars these are located near the control knobs, and thus easy to accidently switch. If you loosen the switch, turn thru 90 degrees, so it's now switching forwards/backward s, and retighten (ensure you got enough room and cable slack in the control cavity to do this), then you'll be less likely to catch it with the up/down motion of your arm. 5. Straps If you don't want to relocate a horn strap button, then you can always use your strap acoustic style i.e. tie it to the headstock.
Almost any electric can be converted, but obviously single cutaways give limited access to the top frets, although you can overcome this to a limited extent by playing "Jeff Healey style" on the upper frets i.e. with your fretting hand above the fretboard. 1. Nut It's worthwhile investing in some files to make your own. I use "Norman Nut Files" (sold on eBay) on good quality bone blanks - works perfectly every time. Glue the new nut in with just a few drops of PVA - don't use epoxy or superglue. 2. Bridge With a one piece slanted bridge, and if you can't get enough adjustment on the saddles, then you may have to change it to one that has adjustment screws in contact with the posts in order to "correct" the angle. With trems, you can either try it with the arm above, or invest in a lefthanded one. Some FRs and early Kahlers have a trem hole on either side so there's no problem for conversion. 3. Control knobs Obviously for Tele-type vol or tone twiddlers, having the knobs on top is a big disadvantage. If you're not one of those, then the next big problem is accidently moving the controls whilst playing. The cure is to put a small rubber washer under each knob so that the control is relatively stiff to turn. 4. 3-way Gibson-type selecter switches On some guitars these are located near the control knobs, and thus easy to accidently switch. If you loosen the switch, turn thru 90 degrees, so it's now switching forwards/backwards, and retighten (ensure you got enough room and cable slack in the control cavity to do this), then you'll be less likely to catch it with the up/down motion of your arm. 5. Straps If you don't want to relocate a horn strap button, then you can always use your strap acoustic style i.e. tie it to the headstock.
im planing on buying a shit replica guitar or some thing then make a very detailed video of me converting it to lefty including putting the knobs at the bottom and making is double cut away if its not already
im planing on buying a shit replica guitar or some thing then make a very detailed video of me converting it to lefty including putting the knobs at the bottom and making is double cut away if its not already
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